Water Wings
When we asked owner Brendan O’Connor how he would like his customers to come away, he replied, “Healthier, less wealthier, yet satisfied.” He ribbed that food critics are overfed and impossible to excite, and admitted to turfing out well-heeled dames for being obnoxious. Good to see an owner with a love for the common man, especially in this snooty part of Howth. Deep is waterside – but there isn’t a floating trolley in sight. The spotless vibe continues indoors, with bright white walls and impressive artwork. Chef Paul McNally does a familiar array of Mediterranean seafood dishes: deep-fried calamari (€7.95) and sea bass (€22.50) are sure things. They also claim to serve “the best buffalo wings on the Northside” (€7.50).
12 West Pier, Howth, County Dublin, 806 3921, www.deep.ie
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