Elephant in the Temple
I worked out the other day that I’ve scoffed well over a thousand Indian meals (usually some kind of lamb curry) during my time on this planet. Despite this vaguely disturbing realisation, I was keen to find out if Rasam, which is routinely mentioned in these pages as one of the best Indian restaurants in Dublin, was still living up to its reputation.
Some sniff at the location – Rasam is above a pub; but so what? The L-shaped dining area is a luxurious but bling-free zone, the tables well-spaced, the atmosphere quietly intimate. There’s a welcome lack of fluff in both the menu and wine list, which instead feature useful descriptions and suggestions. The menu isn’t huge because it’s been well thought-out; instead of being culled from an Excel spreadsheet of meats and sauces, each dish is there for a reason, and has a strong, singular identity. Without having tasted a morsel, you get the impression these people know what they’re doing.
Sure enough, the food is sublime. The mixed platter starter (€14.95) features beautifully prepared duck, chicken, pork, squid and a huge prawn masquerading as a lobster. Yet it’s bettered by what follows. My partner’s Andhra prawns (€22.95) are pretty much perfect, and my Lal Maas (€21.95) is quite simply the best lamb curry I’ve ever had. Slow-cooked, tender meat in a hugely rich, almost multi-dimensional sauce. Faultless.
After desserts and well-made Irish Coffee, we try to find fault; the sticky toffee pudding could have done with a bit more sticky toffee, and the eagle-eyed customer might spot a few worn patches of carpet in need of replacement. That’s about it. The toilets are immaculate, the service friendly and professional without being overbearing. As a final bonus, I notice both our main dishes are also available on the Early Bird menu (€23.95). We’ll be back!
This may not be the best Indian restaurant in Dublin but, as Brian Clough might have said, it’s probably in the Top One.
18/19 Glasthule Road, Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin, 230 0600, www.rasam.ie
The food is delicious, the service is second to none, the restaurant is spacious, relaxing and private. Prices are very resonable too.
Posted by: Anonymous | September 20, 2007 at 12:39 PM