Still

Meet Young Models

The general manager of the Dylan says Still is the best restaurant in Dublin. Oh yeah? Like the rest of this funky boutique hotel, the dining room resembles a Wallpaper shoot in, say, 2002: grand piano, decadent chandeliers, sumptuous white palate. All very expensive. Models love it. Service is now – after hiccups – efficient. The food is ‘experimental’ Irish: we had oysters with tomato consommé and caviar (€18) to start – confusing, but tasty – and a fine roast beef fillet with wild mushroom ravioli (€38). It’s easy to play it safe in Dublin, where even mediocre restaurants get a crowd at peak times (not for long!); this place doesn’t play it safe. Not Dublin’s best restaurant. But certainly not the worst.

Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4, 660 3000, www.dylan.ie