Pre-Renards
The best things about this basement wine bar and bistro in the shadow of Renards nightclub are a.) a smoker-friendly patio with rich red walls, and b.) a splendid pianist. We have never been that impressed by the food, and, while it is improving, there is still a sense that the chef is over-reaching. If the paté de foie gras in the hamburger made any difference to its taste, one would feel obliged to reward imagination. A fillet of beef with sautéed potatoes took an hour to arrive. Our waitress was a young Italian student whose smile made it difficult to carp with any conviction. Good spot for a glass of something en route to the fleshpots. (Are you aware that Dunne & Crescenzi is across the road?)
12 South Frederick Street, Dublin 2. 617 0900. www.trinitylodge.com
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