Promising start.
The Radisson’s sure bar is courting a chic crowd with its slick design. The restaurant on the ground floor has a similarly snazzy interior, its long long central tables – used for the breakfast buffet – adorned at night with silvery oysters atop mountains of ice.
They are clearly trying hard, and you have to respect that. The menu is all about the French classics – mussels with fries, coq au vin (made authentically with cockerel), peppered steak and steak tartare. Not especially expensive. A good wine list too, and helpful waiters on hand to talk you through it.
Despite good intentions, the cooking is still a bit erratic. One to watch.
Radisson SAS Royal Hotel, Golden Lane, Dublin 8. 898 2900
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