Duck in
It’s easy to forget about this small basement restaurant sandwiched between fancy neighbours (the Shelbourne and Browne’s/Richard Corrigan). Bear it in mind if you want to eat away from the prying eyes of gossip columnists and/or if you’re relatively fussy about old-fashioned virtues like quality and value.
They serve a variety of tasting plates at lunch, which is the best time to go. The best is La Landaise: smoked duck with a French bean salad in a walnut dressing, alongside a confit duck leg and pommes Sarladaises (they will also give you chips if you ask nicely).
The other intelligent option is l’Oceane (€20.50): a bowl of mussels accompanied by a scallop and prawn brochette. Service is courteous, and on a sunny day it’s worth remembering that there are two tables outside on the terrace. Inside is a bit pokey and when it’s full the noise level is alarmingly high (on Friday and Saturday nights there’s live jazz). Not, then, a stellar dining room, but something of a stalwart all the same.
22, St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 661 6669
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