NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH Donnybrook in Western Australia, Donnybrook in
the Australian state of Victoria, Donnybrook in North Dakota,
Donnybrook in New Jersey, Donnybrook in KwaZulu-Natal. Donnybrook is
one of the most affluent suburbs in Dublin and is home to the state
broadcaster, RTÉ. It was originally the site of a convent established
by a holy woman known as Broc, hence Domhnach Broc or the Church of
Saint Broc.
HISTORY Once the location of the Donnybrook Fair, a two-day event notorious for drunkenness and violent disorder (donnybrook came to mean a brawl or fracas). The fair attracted crowds of up to 75,000 and featured stallholders from Britain and America showcasing such wonders as “Paddy Maguire’s learned pig Toby who can tell the hours of the day and talk like a Christian.” The fair was banned in 1855 and a new Catholic church was established in 1866 to atone for the sins committed. The original fairgrounds are now the playing fields of Bective Rugby Club.
PROPERTY Homes in Donnybrook are highly desirable. They come in many styles, from minute cottages to detached mansions, but the area is particularly known for its spacious but dark six or seven-bedroom Victorian houses. The best period homes are on the avenues off Herbert Park or Marlborough Road, Eglinton Road and Mount Eden Road. Anyone who bought in Donnybrook before 2000 can consider themselves fortunate: a revamped redbrick on Marlborough Road fetched €3.8 million at auction having previously sold for half that in 2003.
SCHOOLS Pembroke School, established by Miss Kathleen Meredith in 1929, is affectionately known as “Miss Meredith’s.” Past pupils include Michael McDowell and Eamon O Cuiv; author Maeve Binchy was the History and French teacher. Muckross Park College recently took possession of a new building, which replaces an unsuitable warren of inadequate prefabs. John Scottus Secondary School was established in 1986 by a group of parents influenced by their studies in the School of Philosophy. The Teresian School is a Catholic school for girls.
NEIGHBOURS There is still a strong local community here. Donnybrook has been home to some real legends. Authors Anthony Trollope, Flann O’Brien, Benedict Kiely and Brendan Behan made their home there as did poet Patrick Kavanagh, explorer Ernest Shackleton and inventors John Boyd Dunlop (pneumatic tyre) and Guglielmo Marconi (wireless radio). Irish Times editor Geraldine Kennedy lives on Mount Eden Road, as do several high-profile barristers. (Interesting!)
HOSPITALS The Royal Hospital was founded in 1743 as a Hospital for Incurables at the initiative of the Charitable Musical Society of Crow Street. The hospital moved to its present location in Donnybrook in 1792 and provides long-term care for elderly people who are chronically sick or disabled.
BARS AND PUBS Kielys – the capital of ROC’K country – is one of Dublin’s oldest pubs and was granted a licence in 1739. Ciss Madden’s is an olde worlde bar attached to the side. Sachs Hotel, currently closed for refurbishment, was always popular with the more mature lothario. Long’s, recently smartened up, is still a proper Dublin pub and Madigans and McCloskeys attract the rugby crowd that avoids Kielys.
RESTAURANTS Casa Pasta & Pizza is the place to go if you have little ones. The popular Donnybrook Fair Café is located above the shop but don’t visit if you fancy a late lunch as they only serve sticky buns after 3pm. RTE staff favour Furama. Classic French cuisine is on offer in the charming but expensive Poulot’s, in what was once Ernie’s. The Courtyard is a popular (and mediocre) neighbourhood restaurant. Yo Thai occupies the spot above Kielys; Khans Balti House is another place worth bearing in mind for some sustenance after a match.
ENTERTAINMENT Wesley disco is heavily criticised by the tabloid media and devotees of Liveline who regard it as a modern day Sodom and Gomorrah, but is apparently enjoyed – though perhaps not remembered – by hordes of scantily-clad teenage girls and filthy little brats. Kielys holds a traditional music session every Thursday and patrons of the Courtyard can chew to the sound of live piano music.
TRANSPORT Donnybrook, due to the presence of the bus garage, is serviced by lots of bus routes including: 10, 118, 145, 18, 32X, 41X, 46A, 58C, 746, 7B, 7D and 84X. The St. Kevins Bus Service, which is privately owned and family run, operates daily services from Dublin to Glendalough via Donnybrook and the Aircoach service passes through also.
GREEN SPACE Herbert park is beautifully maintained with delightful walks and a duck-filled pond. The Dublin International Trades Exhibition was held here in 1907 and showcased exhibits from the British Empire including a complete Somali village. Some features from that event remain: the lake, some shelters and the pergola. An Indian village site is now a Gaelic football pitch. The Grove is a little oasis situated close to the underground Swan River. Although not regularly accessible, open days are held occasionally by An Taisce.
SPORTING FACILITIES The rugby ground (capacity 7,000) has been the home stadium of Leinster, which moves to the RDS later this year. Donnybrook will then be redeveloped into an 11,200-capacity stadium with state of the art facilities. Donnybrook Lawn Tennis Club is one of the oldest tennis clubs in Ireland, established in 1893.
POLITICIANS Fine Gael Councillor Lucinda Creighton and Labour Councillor Dermot Lacey, a former Lord Mayor, are locals. Eamon De Valera lived here as a young man. Michael Collins carried out his intelligence work from 5 Mespil Road. Eoin McNeill, Commander-in-Chief of the Irish Volunteers in 1916 and later Minister for Education, lived at 19 Herbert Park. The O’Rahilly who fought in the G.P.O. during the Easter Rising and was shot dead while trying to escape, lived at 40 Herbert Park.
BEST-KEPT SECRET St Mary’s graveyard, neglected for many decades, was tidied up in the 1980s. During the cleanup the granite base for a wooden cross dating back to Saint Broc’s convent was found. Many of the gravestone inscriptions are no longer legible. The graveyard was closed for burials in 1880, save for 45 families named in the closure order. Anyone can borrow the key from Donnybrook Garda station and spend some contemplative time in this peaceful place.
THE BOTTOM LINE A tale of two suburbs: Donnybrook, always assumed to be affluent and well-to-do, still has a thriving, though aging, working class population. This mix has long been a characteristic of the neighbourhood. However, its proximity to the city, excellent amenities and good schools makes it inevitable that the poor will eventually be priced out. The rich are already here, of course. Hence the profusion of upmarket food outlets: Butler’s Pantry, Donnybrook Fair, Terroirs, the Douglas Food Company and Roy Fox’s. All very tasty... if you can afford it.
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