The Best of Dublin 2008 - Food

Food & Drink

We love eating. We love drinking. Not necessarily in that order. Some days we want a burger and a beer, other days nothing will stop our whining but crème brûlée and a cocktail. There’s room for all in life. Here are our tips for the best chow the city has to offer, from cheap to extortionate

Art & Desserts
Piedescalso
78 Thomas Street, Dublin 8

Carlsberg don’t do unpronounceable Italian desserts, but if they did they’d probably be akin to the sugary delights served up by Thomas Street’s newest tenants. Into every life a little of Piedescalso’s moist tiramisu should fall, while their chocolate cake could evoke a sigh from the most militant of carb-phobes. Don’t let the down-at-heel decor or the unpredictable weekend hours deter you – the café is a hub of activity by day and night. By turns a short film festival site, a gig location and an art gallery, this place is a Mecca of sorts for both NCAD students and dwellers of the nearby Digital Hub. Desserts, coffees and salads are served with nary a bell nor a whistle in sight, but it’s all part of Piedescalso’s unique and plain charm. The artwork isn’t the only eye candy on offer – the staff have an iron-clad reputation for being deliciously good looking. TS

Spag Bol
The Gigs Place
South Richmond Street, Dublin 2

Remember the 1980s, when the Coffee Inn’s spaghetti bolognese was the acme of haute cuisine? It was made with unfeasibly white pasta and lashings of minced beef; fresh basil and angel hair vermicelli were unheard of. The Gigs Place has resurrected the early incarnation of this comfort-food classic. Admittedly, their blissfully unpretentious version is perhaps suited less to die-hard gastronomes and more to merry nostalgists. As ever, the rough-and-ready Gigs Place earns points for being one of the few joints that serves alcohol at 5am; for that very reason, the eatery is often populated by skinny-jeaned folk fresh from Solas and Carnival, and taxi drivers waiting for Manhattan to open.  (As we ask every year, is it still open?) Go for the entertainingly shabby decor and stay for the people-watching. TS

Chocolate Cake
The Cake Café
The Daintree Building, Pleasants Place, Dublin 2. 478 9394,
www.thecakecafe.ie

It’s the kind of cake that makes you wish for bad things to happen so you have an excuse to eat it. It’s the kind of café that makes everything feel better when bad things do happen. Maybe it’s the colourful flowers, the mish-mash of crockery that make you feel like you’re ‘round your gran’s. The closest thing to paradise on Camden Street,   and with cake like this for just €3.80 a slice, it’s the perfect afternoon treat. AS

Fusion Food
The Hop House
160 Parnell Street, Dublin 1. 872 8318

When it comes to the old and the new, Parnell Street is a dolly mixture of the finest Asian cuisine (Mr Choys), Polish grocery stores (Samo Dobro, Assorti) and Irish institutions (the Ilac, the Welcome Inn). Continuing the mish-mash tradition is the Hop House, a Chinese-owned and Korean-themed restaurant in the shell of the old Shakespeare Pub. The menu offers a mixture of Chinese, Japanese and Korean delicacies (€10-14) and a vast array of Asian beers, available in pitchers. The smoking garden morphs into a barbeque every Friday and Saturday night with a soundtrack of reggae, ska, hip-hop and oriental pop. You won’t find finer fusion cuisine in Dublin. CK

City Centre Café
Léon
33 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.
671 0114, www.cafeleon.ie

Business owners think of themselves as discerning folk. When they skive off for mid-morning coffee, they like to feel pampered, and they are quite particular about their requirements. Léon on Exchequer Street is the favoured haunt of local bigwigs like David Andrews of Weir and Sons and Donal MacNally who owns the excellent Optica store on Royal Hibernian Way. They are drawn to this branch of the popular café chain (there are three within a hundred yards of each other) for several reasons. The breakfast menu is long, and it features, for instance, a superb eggs Florentine. There is nothing wrong with the coffee, and they serve half a dozen different teas. The service is excellent; manager Alberto is a real gent. There is a wide selection of newspapers for the pleasure of customers, including the London Times and Guardian. The music is good, with a particular emphasis on moody chanteuses and jazz standards. And finally, there is a real peat fire in the winter. This last attraction is what does it for us. At this hour of the day, few pleasures rival the mingled whiffs of macchiato and peat. TW

Créme Brúlée
Patrick Guilbaud
21 Upper Merrion Street,
Dublin 2. 676 4192,
www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie

There is nothing that strikes more fear into the heart than a crème brûlée made by an amateur chef. It is one of those dishes that holds a peculiar fascination for people who rarely cook (especially men, for some reason), and is frequently attempted, usually with catastrophic results. Presumably the attraction is the blowtorch – an irresistible challenge to any would-be Gordon Ramsay. By contrast, a masterfully prepared crème brûlée is one of the most wonderful desserts out there and no one does it better than Guildbaud. The custard is heavenly, pale, rich, and swirled through with dark, aromatic vanilla seeds. Its creamy denseness is relieved by the crunchy, caramelised, burnt-sugar top. Doesn’t get any better than this. CG

Pizza
Di Fontaine’s
4 Crown Alley, Temple Bar,
Dublin 2. 677 7959

Di Fontaine’s, otherwise known as the pizza place at Eamonn Doran’s, does New York style pizza at its best. The giant pies are prepared in front of you, baked in the oven and cut into big ol’ slices. There’s a respectable choice of toppings including – pepperoni, chicken, ham and a great margherita, the sign of a top pizza parlour. Di Fontaine’s stays open late, so it’s a perfect post-pub destination if you’re feeling peckish. There are a few stools, but best to take your slice to the upstairs bar of Doran’s and have it with a pint. One quibble: the prices have gone up. A slice of margherita will now set you back €4. CG

Breakfast
Cornucopia
19 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2. 677 7583,
www.cornucopia.ie

We think the breakfasts in Cornucopia are the best in the city – take up the challenge, ye who like a bit of sausage. This vegetarian restaurant makes all its food on the premises, and if you get there early, you’ll see the piles of vegetables that are delivered daily. The breakfast choices are plentiful: everything from muesli with natural organic yoghurt to blueberry crêpes, as well as a full cooked breakfast menu – pick out individual items to get the best value for money. The spelt toast is tasty and the homemade baked beans unmissable. Don’t overlook the freshly made juices either – try the melon and apple. CG

Sake
Ukiyo
7-9 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.
633 4071, www.ukiyobar.com

Finding good sake in Dublin requires determination. Although Asian markets sell it by the bottle, the place to go for the good stuff is Ukiyo, which has a wide selection, both hot and cold. It’s rice wine – something of an acquired taste – so beginners should start with a glass of cold  sake, as the warm version can be an alien experience. The bar staff in Ukiyo are knowledgeable, friendly and willing to advise. Great food in here too, and of course, karaoke booths downstairs. CG

Country Market
Kilternan
Opposite the Golden Ball,
Kilternan, County Dublin.
www.irelandmarkets.com 

Every Saturday from 10am, our favourite country market takes place near the Golden Ball pub in Kilternan. Established all the way back in 1964 – some of the founders are still involved – the focus of the market is mainly on home cooking, but you can also pick up fresh garden flowers and arts and crafts. There’s a great ambience here – very old world, and the experience and enthusiam of the stallholders is refreshing. Get there early – there’s a scrum for the best stuff in the first hour. DW

Steak
Fallon & Byrne
11-17 Exchequer Street , Dublin 2.
472 1010, www.fallonandbyrne.com 

The super-succulent steaks in Fallon & Byrne (€27) are served with home-cut chips and Bearnaise sauce. The key is the sourcing of the meat, and F&Bs say they kissed a lot of beef producers before finding their prince. The animals are hand-picked from local farmers and reared in a stress-free environment (because hyped-up heifers yield tough meat). Most importantly, the beef is then hung for between 21 and 28 days. Many restaurants don’t bother doing this, because the animal loses blood and therefore weight, but chefs say maturing meat properly gives it extra flavour and makes it more tender. The cooking is straightforward: brush with oil, add pepper and salt and cook on a flame grill. Et voilà. JB

Knickerbocker Glory
Fallon & Byrne
11-17 Exchequer Street , Dublin 2. 472 1010, www.fallonandbyrne.com

Every foodie has an inner child – the little toe-rag who would rather eat jelly and ice cream than muse over the texture of a crème brûlée. In a city lit so brightly by Michelin stars, this is a fact none of us too readily admit, unless of course you’ve indulged in a Fallon & Byrne Knickerbocker Glory (€7.75). Tucked discreetly away at the bottom of the dessert list, this cheeky nod to nostalgia is an all-round crowd pleaser. Thick layers of vanilla ice-cream, homemade crumble and spicy plums doused in red wine, all topped off with crushed nuts and crème Chantilly. Just in case you think that sounds too adult, it comes in a high glass with a long spoon. If you ask them nicely, they might even give you a Beano. AOC

Cheap Italian
Pizza Stop
6-10 Chatham Lane, off Grafton Street, Dublin 2.
679 6712

This veteran Italian is neither as fashionable nor as fun as it once was. But it has a cosy, intimate feel, veering slightly towards kitsch, with red and white checked tablecloths and candles stuck into wine bottles. The house wine isn’t at all bad, they do a good range of pasta dishes and the pizzas – typically Italian with a thin and crispy base – are also worth trying. Pasta starts at €9.50, and most of the dishes don’t go above the €14 mark. They serve until midnight every night – it can be a welcome oasis when the sweaty pubs are wrecking your head. CG

Butter
Tinnock Farm
087 220 3300

The homemade butter sold at Dun Laoghaire CoCo Market on a Sunday, from the refrigerated van of farmer John Murphy, is absolutely delicious. This is, in fact, the taste of real butter. The very cheerful John, of Tinnock Farm Produce in County Wexford, has a regular stall here and at five other country markets. He also sells gorgeous bits of organic lamb that he rears himself, free range eggs and other products. DW

Muffins
KC Peaches
Unit 10A Trinity Enterprise Centre, Pearse Street, Dublin 2.
677 0333 www.kcpeaches.com

Just about anything baked here is worth a try, but muffinistas will find a trek out to the edge of Ringsend particularly worthwhile. We’ve long felt that chocolate and oranges are the best way to start the day and, when blended in a muffin, the result is brekkie magic. KCPs has overcome its chronic disorganisation since our last visit, so you won’t wait too long to sink your teeth into the flavourful crust. While choc’n’orange rule the roost in our office, the raspberry and cream cheese muffins are also worth a taste. Grab a coffee too – piping hot and deliciously strong.  DO

Eggs Benedict
Wild Lily
Upper Rathmines Road, Dublin 6. 497 6870

Hangovers are like grey hairs – the older you get, the more frequent and stubborn they become. Why people still insist the ‘cure’ lies in a soggy egg roll from Spar is a mystery, especially when Wild Lily offers such a divine alternative. Provided your eyes aren’t too bloodshot, you’ll find a quaint little café on Upper Rathmines Road that does the most edifying eggs Benedict. Grab yourself one of the purple banquettes near the outside balcony (adorable view), order yourself two eggs with Bayonne ham and Hollandaise sauce (€9.50), throw in a Bellini as a dog’s hair (€9.50) et voilà. If you don’t emerge from this boudoir-style bistro with renewed vitality, you should probably be in A&E. AOC


First Date
The Port House
64a South William Street,
Dublin 2. 677 0298

First dates are a minefield; one which can be minimised, however, with the right choice of venue. Take the Port House, a restaurant which doubles cleverly as tapas Mecca and romantic mood-setter. Upon entering the bodega-style cavern, ask for one of the candlelit back snugs. Start with a glass of cava (€3.50), move onto a selection of hot pinxtos, like spicy chorizo or piri piri chilli chicken (€2-12), and finish off with a plate of Churros (€6) – cinnamon-coated doughnuts with hot chocolate dipping sauce. If this still doesn’t set the mood, there’s always the extensive wine list...or one of the hot waiters. Hey, any port in a storm. AOC

Scones
Avoca
11-13 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2.
677 4215 , www.avoca.ie

It’s trickier than it seems to find a decent scone in this city. More often that not, you are presented with a dry, rock-solid lump, heavily laced with bicarbonate of soda and dotted with currants that resemble pieces of gravel. An Avoca scone is different. In a choice of plain, brown, mixed berry or cheese and tomato, these are light, airy creations, their tops brushed with sugar or scattered with sesame seeds. They are made in the  rooftop bakery daily. (Keogh’s on Trinity Street also do an exceedingly good scone, but they make you pay extra for butter. Grumble.) CG

Place to Nurse a Hangover
Nude
21 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2.
677 4804, www.nude.ie

Hungover? You can’t talk, you look terrible and you feel like you have a washing machine in your belly. All you want to do is slump in a dark corner and inhale a greasy fry. But don’t! Eating well the morning after is the only solution and Nude is the right place for it. Its long benches are perfect if you’re alone (plus you can prop yourself up against the wall). It’s quite dark –  definitely a plus. The food is healthy, without being too grassy, and there’s a wide choice: sandwiches and bagels, soups, salads, and if you’re up early enough, nice hot and cold breakfast items. Student discounts too. CG

Pizza
Bottega toffoli
34 Castle Street, Dublin 2. 633 4022

Elaine McArdle and Carlo Eremita must be almost blinded from slicing spicy salami for their most popular pizza, the Sculacciata. The Roberto, a plain Margarita with prosciutto, comes a close second. The Ciccio, meaning ‘stuffed to the gills’ in Italian (or love handles, which is why it’s also used as a term of endearment), has fresh cherry tomatoes, Irish rocket, prosciutto and mozzarella. Café Toffoli is now open seven days (5pm to 8pm on Sundays). They roast all their own vegetables and buy their produce fresh in the market every morning to be cooked in their two tiny ovens. “The secret behind all of this is simplicity,” McArdle says. “There’s not too much fuss attached to it. That’s what makes a good pizza.” Beware: this place is tiny. They can seat 21 at a squeeze. QF

Pancakes
Lemon
66 South William Street,
Dublin 2. 672 9044

Pancakes (called ‘crepes’ now to sound less Lentish) used to be something we ate only on Shrove Tuesday. Visitors to France, especially Brittany, occasionally got a taste of what they were missing for the rest of the year. It’s a simple recipe – flour, sugar and egg – but Lemon does it better than most. A small café, it has indoor and outdoor seating for up to 45 people. The menu includes about 15 sweet and savoury crepes with prices averaging between €5 and €9. The adventurous might try the Tequila Lemon Suzzette – lemon, sugar, butter and tequila. All the staples are here too: chocolate and fruit crepes, honey and jam, and the traditional crepe, just like mammy used to make, with lemon, sugar and butter. That’s €4.50 and the most popular among the 400 crepes sold here each day. There is a sister branch on Dawson Street. JB

Ice Cream
Butlers
Dublin Airport and Liffey Street. 814 1480,
www.butlerschocolates.com

Butler’s chocolate ice cream in a paper pot. Let it sit and melt your willpower for ten minutes at least. With cream like ours, we’ve let the Italians lead in this business for far too long. The next step should be counters in all the Butlers outlets, followed by an ice-cream parlour to rival the one in Fortnum & Mason in London. AR

Tea Shop
Matchabar
Unit 23, Powerscourt Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2.
764 5991, www.matchabar.com

There is something of the apothecary’s shop about Matchabar’s Tea Emporium. Unmarked, golden tins line the walls accessed by sliding library-style ladders. Coloured teas brew in the corner. There’s a sense of romance and mystery, of magic potions being made. Over 150 teas and tea blends are available to purchase from this beautiful, old Georgian room tucked away in the Powerscourt Centre. Normally, if offered a pink cherry-flavoured liquid, we’d pass, but these teas offer all the subtleties and nuances of wine tasting. There is a lot to explore here. PC

Breakfast Sandwich
Blue Mountain
109A Pearse St, Dublin 2 

There are several things you won’t like about this place – the Pearse Street location, aside from making heavy grating necessary over the windows, means that staff eye the meekest of patrons as if they’re about to start shooting up the place (it’s always the quiet ones). When it’s a hangover-beating shot of pig meat and grease you’re after, though, sensitivity is a liability. If you can just swallow your pride along with the sausages, rashers and egg, you’ll be glad of Blue Mountain, one of the last remaining places in this town to get a breakfast sandwich that ticks all the boxes. It’s made fresh in front of you, tastes much better than it looks, and weighs in with a cup of (manky) coffee for less than a fiver. DO

The Tea Rooms
Botanic Gardens
Glasnevin, Dublin 9. 804 0300,
www.botanicgardens.ie

The tea rooms at the Botanic Gardens is now one of the nicest little eateries in Dublin (though décor is non-existent). The best bargain is the main course, pudding, and coffee for €14.50. Decent wine is available; Santa Rita is what I had. All the food is made on the premises, including the impressive tottering Pavlovas, mortal sin on a plate. On the advice of Idoia, the Basque manageress, I had roast vegetables, spinach and goats cheese filo pastry lily. And boy! Did I relish it! Three extra salads were thrown in for sampling: Rocket and olives, Beetroot with peach or pear and yogurt, and Caesar salad – all great. Herbs picked fresh in the Walled Garden add a unique zing that you don’t get from the plastic packets flown in from Hong Kong. For pudding I had a Homemade apple pie flavoured deliciously with cinnamon and served with a dish of whipped cream. A room overhead can be booked for visiting parties of garden enthusiasts if it is not in use for exhibitions and lectures. HLB

Comments

[Darren]

Brilliant article!